On Tuesday, Virginie Viard presented her second haute couture collection for Chanel —for Spring 2023 — at the Grand Palais in Paris.

The house-favorite venue was fashioned into a garden inspired by the one at the Abbey of Aubazine, where Coco Chanel spent part of her childhood at an orphanage. The theme was echoed in the designs (with floral embroidery, translucent fabrics and rustic wovens meant to call back to the French countryside) and in the styling (uniform sets and socks with loafers).

On straight dresses in two-tone wool or tweed, the flat pleats, braided belts sported high on the hip, collars in cotton piqué or Bertha collars embellished with embroidery echoing the paving stones or stained glass windows of Aubazine, evoke the attire of schoolgirls. Double-breasted pea coats with their tweed skirts share the same spirit.

The show closed, of course, with a veiled Chanel bride.